Signs your PRV has failed
Banging, unusually strong or weak flow, pressure variation, fixture problems, or repeated relief-valve discharge can justify pressure testing, but none identifies a failed PRV by itself. We measure static and operating conditions as appropriate and inspect the accessible regulator, shutoffs, fixtures, supply, and expansion control before assigning the cause.
Why measured pressure matters
Pressure outside the limits for the plumbing, fixtures, appliances, or local code can contribute to leaks, noise, valve wear, and relief-valve operation. A PRV may be part of the correction, but the setting, expansion control, supply behavior, installation, and equipment ratings all matter. No valve can prevent every plumbing failure.
How a PRV works
A PRV is installed on the customer-side supply to reduce downstream pressure. The appropriate setting and allowable maximum depend on local code, manufacturer requirements, building elevation, fixtures, appliances, and measured operation. A regulator also has operating limits and cannot make a variable or inadequate utility supply perfectly constant.
What we do
We measure your actual pressure at the hose bib with a gauge, confirm whether the PRV is the cause, and adjust, rebuild, or replace it to bring the house back into range. If there's no regulator at all and your street pressure is high, we install one — and check for a thermal expansion issue at the water heater while we're at it.
Where it's installed
The regulator goes on the main line where water enters the home, usually near the meter or where the line comes through the wall. We make sure it's accessible for future service and, where appropriate, pair it with the right shutoff so the whole supply can be isolated cleanly.
Signs it’s time to call
- Banging or hammering pipes
- Water pressure too high or too low
- Faucets that blast or barely trickle
- Water heater relief valve drips repeatedly
- Pressure that fluctuates throughout the day
- No regulator on the home, or a stuck old one
